R Murphy or A Look? – LFW A/W 09

A stylist’s personal diary of all the commotion, the kiddies at play, it has people talking….their talking.

Now that I have successfully recovered from my dangerously high levels of adrenalin and dehydration (granted I only have myself to blame) – I am able to sit down long enough to give a recap of all things fashion week (and the commotion surrounding it). Trying to decipher and remember all the happenings from the short week have proved difficult so I am going to cheat a little and give it to you in point by point format.

First – an outline of the trends, and it seems that the designers of London (and this was repeated in Milan and Paris) have stepped back in time as they marched their models down the catwalks in huge shoulder pads and tailored shapes reminiscent of dynasty days and the excess glamour of the 80s (Ashish went mad with neon and sequins) – only with catwalks instead of catfights! There were a number of nods suggesting inspiration from different eras but unlike Milan and Paris or even New York; London has the ability to confuse the press as each designer shows their own distinct references and individuality. I got around to seeing as many shows as I could but have picked just the 4 below to give special mention to.

DESIGNER: William Tempest; Graduate collection; 24 yr old Tempest has worked for Giles Deacon & was awarded the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for 2009.
COLLECTION: Influenced by Philippa Gregory’s novel ‘The Virgin’s Lover’, art and the architecture of the period. Beautifully corseted dresses, sharp tailoring & sculptural shape making. The colour palette has been inspired by the 4 elements – earth, air, fire and water.
A LOOK SAYS: I saw this hotly anticipated show from the front row – where I sat 2 seats down from Ms Harry Potter herself (actress Emma Watson). Of course, I was blissfully unaware that the buzz surrounding my seat position was due to the fortunate mistake of the PR people who mistook me for being Roisin Murphy! Looking back on how this may have happened I cannot help but laugh because the chain of events that lead them to believe this could possibly have happened to anyone. See, I turned up from a previous show (which was of course fashionably very late) to this show late; adorning my usual assortment of heavy necklaces and rings, disproportionate and strange clothing and of course my staple, always present item – a hat (see my previous entry re: Stephen Jones). I caught up with one of the PR girls who was present a few nights later at the House of Blue Eyes show whereby she let me in on the little mistake they had made, hehe – thank the heavens for their mistake. I loved the show! Now, if I had known I was doing an impersonation of the stylish, talented Irish songstress then I would definitely have made a bigger effort! Do I now have a career as an impersonator? Anyone need one? Overall – the perfect evening. Watching Tempest’s extraordinary mix of expert construction & innovation with a strong sense of architecture & form really showed his inspiration from the opulence & excess of Tudor times. His unique pleating mimicked vaulted ceilings & archways synonymous of the historic buildings of the era.

R Murphy and me @ a show. Similar?
DESIGNER: Eun Jeong, Fashion designer from Korea. Winner of Fashion Fringe in 2008
COLLECTION: Black Vanity “Invisibly vehement, black is positively voracious” – Jeong
A LOOK SAYS: Jeong’s signature draping & feminine aesthetic has developed to combine a lithe silhouette with sleek, clean cut tailoring. Gentility and grace is echoed with strong, masculine lines. A beautifully presentable collection in both visual and wearability. Looking forward to seeing future collections.DESIGNER: Ashley Isham
COLLECTION: The juxtaposition of 1940’s sophisticated elegance & 1980’s glamour
A clash of bold graphic pieces & soft delicate silhouettes; showing off his signature-draped gowns. A melting pot of fabrics including sateen waffle, devore chiffon, embellished jacquard, satin, jersey & organza. Contrasts between antique gold, navy & violet add a softer edge combined with the boldness of canary yellow, scarlet, jade, magenta & Yves Klein blue.
A LOOK SAYS: Although having to attend this show as myself was slightly less exciting, I still benefited from a vast collection & its many inspirations. Supermodel Erin O’Connor and Strictly come dancing presenter Tess Daly lined the front row…..knowing all to well that Ashley Isham is known for dressing the glitzy, glam world of pop videos. Girls Aloud – are you reading this?DESIGNER: House of Blue Eyes; Johnny BlueEyes
COLLECTION: Think leather, lace and all things S&M.
A LOOK SAYS: Much hype surrounded this particular show given that Johnny’s good friend Kate Moss came out of catwalk retirement after 5 years to walk in his very first show last season. Johnny BlueEyes is best known as a stylist so the transition from styling to design was always going to be of interest to me. The clothes were a little hard to take seriously – unless you frequent the torture garden and often wear red tassels on your nipples and not much else BUT in saying that, The HOBE is something of an English-ism where it is more about open eccentricities and less about European wearability. At least, that is what this Aussie Sheila understood it to be.

HOBE show

WHO: Italian Vogue Editor Anna Piaggi
WHAT: My chance encounter with the very fabulous Anna Piaggi was just another highlight of a great week!
WHERE: At the International Press Party
WHY: Why not? The British Fashion Council sure know how to throw a party and the International Press Party was no exception. Why else would Anna Piaggi make an appearance on the same night she attended the opening of her dear friend Stephen Jones’s exhibition at the V&A
me with Anna Piaggi!